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Here is google satellite link to my crib out in the middle of nowhere.

If you look carefully, you can see an outline where the grill is. Todo still, make a frame-ish thing that will let me carpet the rear seat passthrough hole.

Semi-final step. I ordered some trunk liner carpet from partsexpress that is a much closer match to the factory trunk liner color. This cover also contains a grill which covers the sub so I can actually use my trunk normally.

Mission accomplished. I have decent low end now without sacrificing appreciable trunk room.

Here's a shot of the trunk with everything mounted and installed.

So here is an action shot of the amp & crossover mounted to the bottom of the rear deck. There was a really convenient threaded bolt hole thingy towards the rear seats, so that took care of how I was going to mount the front part of the board to the underside of the deck. I had to be a little more creative in mounting the board near the trunk lid.

Here is the board I am mounting the amplifier and crossover to. The crossover I am using at the moment is an old school Audiocontrol 2XS. The crossover that is not mounted is an Audiocontrol 4XS, which I plan to use later, when I jack around with the system some more.

Here is the carpeted enclosure which blends into the trunk pretty well. The fabric is actually a little darker than I had planned.

Sub is mounted. Time to hook up the amp. Note the use of old school PPI A404 series II amplifier. The sub is a MB Quart Reference series 10'' with dual 4ohm voice coils. The amp is running in bridged 2 channel mode, supplying the sub with 200 watts RMS per voice coil.

Lots of screws with lots of silicone on the inside. Sure the screws are not pretty, but that is what carpet is for

mounting mdf baffle board to mdf enclosure sides

Yet another test fit ...(aka measure 90 times, drill not so many times)

I was going to use some slick speaker terminals instead of the fugly speaker wire/silicone glob you see here. Problem was I didn't have a good spot to mount the terminals that wouldn't interfere one thing or another

8 guage power wire straight from battery w/ in line fuse ...

This is the enclosure bottom with liberal covering of accoustic noise dampening spray - undercoating spray with noise dampening - courtesy of O'reilly auto parts for $9

Test fit in car
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Adding some black silicone to ensure airtight seal
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Another shot of baffle board clamped to table saw top for jig saw and router clearance.
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Cut hole for speaker in MDF baffle board. Then used router to countersink the speaker. Tried to freehand some of the routing work ...
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Added chopped matt and resin to mdf sides for sealed box. Good times, great smell!
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Added more resin and fiberglass via chop mat. Good times.

Baffle board test fit onto mdf sides. The baffle shape is cut to conform to the trunk shape and more particularly, the cover of the spare tire well.

Adding mdf to serve as perimeter side thingys so I can mount the baffle board to the glass portion of the box.

trimmed off excess glass from sides. At this point, the mold is really ugly as I still have not added more glass and resin yet.

test fit (after some serious die-grinder action to remove any air pockets) - practice tip - DO NOT wear shorts when using a die grinder on fiberglass

mold pulled from car (time for some rework)

more fiberglass and resin w/ 4mm filler

fiberglass and resin action

some drop cloth action (which still did not prevent the fumes)

side supports